Anyone who has wrestled a big-tired truck into a tight parking area or threaded a timeless muscle cars and truck through a winding road knows the limitations of manual steering. Transforming to power help changes the experience, but not all kits are equivalent and not every lorry reacts the very same method. I have set up, tuned, and periodically returned more than a couple of setups throughout the years on everything from square-body Chevys to early Broncos and A-body Mopars. The best conversions feel factory-stable at highway speed, require little effort on the wheel at low speeds, and do not introduce new headaches like pump whine, bump guide, or u-joint binding. The worst feel twitchy, leak early, or require constant fiddling.
This review strolls through the major categories of handbook to power steering conversion choices, the leading players in each classification, and how to pick a kit that fits your car and utilize case. It also covers the small pieces that make or break the install, consisting of steering columns, an aftermarket steering shaft that really clears headers, and the ideal steering universal joint to deal with odd column and box angles.
Where a conversion makes the biggest impact
Manual steering can be perfectly serviceable on a light car with skinny front tires. Add weight, bigger tire contact spots, modern caster settings for stability, or off-road tires and manual boxes end up being work. A well-chosen power steering conversion kit lets you:
- Reduce steering effort at parking speed without losing roadway feel at 60 to 80 mph. Run more positive caster for straight-line stability, especially on trucks that roam with stock specs.
The sweet spot includes classic trucks that tow sometimes, muscle cars with broader front rubber and modern alignment, and classic 4x4s that see blended street and trail duty. On the other end, concours remediations and light-weight sports cars may benefit more from a rebuilt handbook box and fresh geometry if creativity or simpleness outranks convenience.
The main courses to power assist
Kits fall under a number of camps. Your vehicle and objectives will point toward one of these paths.
Retain the original steering box and add a hydraulic ram. Popular on some vintage Ford and Mopar platforms, this preserves factory linkage and a manual box with a power-assist cylinder. It keeps duration look, however it includes hoses and can be finicky to tune for on-center feel. Parts are getting scarce sometimes and leakages are common if elements are blended and matched.
Swap to a factory-style power steering box. This is the most typical and frequently the most dependable. A steering box conversion package replaces the handbook box with an OEM-spec or quick-ratio box. Lines and a pump finish the system. Feel can be outstanding if package ratio matches the automobile weight and tire size. Numerous kits use reman boxes that vary in quality, so brand name and warranty matter.
Bolt-on rack and pinion conversion. Popular for traditional muscle and some trucks where space permits, rack conversions can improve on-center precision and often reduce bump steer when the kit is well engineered. They also free up header area in some applications. The drawback is packaging complexity and, on some chassis, a poor tie-rod length or pivot mismatch that presents bump guide if geometry is not corrected.
Electric power help on the column. This is growing fast in specific niche circles. A column-mounted electric motor adds help without changes to the steering box or rack. It simplifies pipes, eliminates a pump, and lowers parasitic drag. It needs cautious installing, a strong column, and correct torque sensing unit calibration. Perfectionists may object, and high current electrical wiring plus heat management must be considered.
For this evaluation, I focus on hydraulic conversions that most lovers consider initially, with notes on when a rack or electric column makes more sense.
What separates a great set from a bad one
The best power steering conversion package is not simply a box, a pump, and a couple tubes. The information specify the outcome.
First, steering geometry. A power box with the wrong pitman arm length or spline configuration can alter guiding ratio at the roadway, making the lorry twitchy or lazy. Second, real ratio and valving. A quick-ratio box in a heavy truck with 35-inch tires can feel nervous without suitable caster and high-effort valving. Third, parts quality. Pumps with careless tolerances cavitate. Hose pipes that lose get zip-tied near headers and stop working. A great set consists of a pump bracket that lines up belts, an appropriate rag joint or a high-quality steering universal joint, and clear directions about alignment targets and bleeding procedures.
Noise is the huge inform. A system that wails after warm-up, particularly during low-speed steering, often experiences aeration. Poor tank style, tube routing that welcomes suction leakages, or a return line discarding above the fluid level will have you chasing your tail. An aftermarket guiding shaft that binds is the other warning. If you are mixing columns, retractable shafts, and headers, prepare for a double U-joint with an intermediate support bearing to keep angles under 30 degrees overall and under 15 degrees per joint. That little piece of planning conserves hours of frustration.
Brand families and what they are understood for
There are lots of labels on the market, many drawing from the same small group of remanufacturers. The differences lie in screening standards, warranties, efficiency, and tech assistance. Below is a field-based map of common choices by automobile type, not a thorough roll call.
Classic GM vehicles and trucks. Lots of sets utilize the Saginaw 700 or 800 series boxes. Borgeson and CPP have well-supported plans for A, F, and X bodies and square-body trucks. Look for boxes with the proper input shaft size to match your column coupler and a choice of ratios. For square-body 4x4s, RedHead Steering's reman boxes have constant on-center feel, though you will buy the pump and brackets separately. If you want a tighter ratio without losing stability, a 12.7:1 box with firmer valving works well on half-ton trucks with 31 to 33 inch tires.
Early Ford cars and Broncos. Borgeson's essential power guiding conversion is a go-to for first-gen Bronco owners who are tired of the factory ram help system. It utilizes a contemporary important box, a pump, tubes, and the essential column adapter. On early Mustangs and Falcons, Unisteer makes rack conversions that keep bump steer in check if set up with proper shimming. The Borgeson box tends to provide better road feel than many aftermarket racks on these automobiles, though the racks can free up header area with particular engine swaps.
Mopar B and E bodies. Company Feel and Steer & & Gear have earned devoted followings for remanufactured factory-style boxes with customized valving. Mopar owners tend to care about steering feel and wheel return, and these homes will develop a box for your weight, tire, and intended use. Pumps and brackets are typically separate purchases or sourced from modern Serpentine conversions.
Vintage 4x4 conversions. For solid axle Jeeps and Land Cruisers, PSC and AGR provide durable pumps, remote reservoirs, and boxes or Saginaw conversions planned for off-road loads. These are overkill for a street-only cruiser but shine when tires get large and steering sees high loads on rocks. With 35s and lockers, a stock-style power box can overheat or cavitate. A PSC package with a high-capacity tank, cooler, and proper hose sizes keeps help consistent.
Electric column assist. ePowerSteering and EPAS Performance offer column units for classics where hydraulic product packaging is a mess or creativity matters underhood. They incorporate torque sensing units and speed-sensitive assist in some applications. On heavy cars or big tires, electrical help alone may feel labored at very low speeds, however for a light coupe or roadster it is elegantly easy and silent.
Real-world results by platform
I will keep this practical with what tends to deal with typical vehicles.
GM A-body and F-body. A quick-ratio Saginaw box with matched pump is the simplest path. CPP's sets cover brackets for little block and big block, and their pumps behave if the reservoir sits greater than the pump inlet and returns are routed cleanly. Borgeson's boxes frequently have tighter internal tolerances and much better on-center feel out of package. Match the conversion with modern positioning specs, plus a quality steering universal joint to replace worn rag joints if you are running headers. The stock column can be maintained, but an aftermarket steering shaft with a double D slip section helps with engine movement and firewall angles.
Square-body Chevy and GMC trucks. RedHead's reman box plus a Type II pump kit from a trusted source provides a strong steering feel and decreases pump whine compared to spending plan Saginaw pumps. Numerous kits include rubber hose pipes that swell slightly and dampen ripple; braided stainless looks good however can send noise. If you tow or run bigger tires, a small cooler plumbed into the return line assists fluid life.
Early Bronco. The Borgeson essential box set tidies up the front end compared to factory ram assist. It brings better on-center feel and less leakage points. Strategy to adjust the column length and use a guiding universal joint that matches the new box input spline. The provided pump bracketry lines up on small blocks, however huge block or 5.0 swaps might need customized brackets. People forget alignment: an early Bronco likes more caster than stock after the conversion, usually 4 to 6 degrees with power assist.
First-gen Mustang and Falcon. Rack conversions prevail, however bump steer can sneak in if the rack's inner tie-rod pivots do not align with the lower control arm rotates. Unisteer's sets consist of spacers and instructions to correct this. If you choose a factory appearance and strong steering feel, the Borgeson integral box with a quality pump works well up to 245 front tires. An aftermarket guiding shaft with a retractable section is advisable for security and to reduce installation around headers.
Mopar B and E bodies. A rebuilt box from Firm Feel with phase 2 valving balances effort and feedback for roadway use. Original pumps are great when healthy, however a contemporary pump bracket and reservoir streamline belt alignment. Numerous Mopar owners underestimate the rag joint; switching to a guiding universal joint enhances accuracy, specifically with stiffer suspension bushings.
Jeep CJ and YJ, old-school Land Cruisers. If you wheel, pick a sturdy box and pump with a large reservoir and a cooler. PSC's pump and tank combinations withstand cavitation in sluggish, high-load steering. A steering box conversion set that upgrades frame reinforcement near package is essential to prevent breaking. A double U-joint aftermarket guiding shaft with an assistance bearing clears headers and avoids binding throughout suspension travel.
The little parts that make the huge difference
A conversion that feels factory-smooth owes its good manners to details most purchasers disregard up until issues appear.
Aftermarket steering elements. Not all replacement pitman arms, idler arms, and center links are equal. Use joints from understood suppliers or OE if readily available. Sloppy new parts mess up an excellent box.
Steering universal joint quality. Cheap u-joints can bind and establish play within a year. Heat from headers accelerates grease breakdown. Quality joints from Borgeson or Flaming River, properly lined up, last longer and feel tighter.
Aftermarket guiding shaft style. Slip sections prevent column stress when the engine rocks on its installs. For tight angles, a two-joint arrangement with an intermediate support bearing gives better geometry than requiring a single joint beyond 30 degrees.
Pump and sheave positioning. Even a couple of millimeters off will squeal and consume belts. Bracket sets that reference multiple mounting points tend to remain lined up much better than basic plate brackets.
Hose routing and reservoir option. A remote tank with a correct return diffuser reduces aeration and sound. Keep returns listed below the fluid line and far from heat. Do not install pipes where they chafe on the frame or crossmember. If area is tight near headers, utilize heat sleeves.
Bleeding procedure. Turn the wheel lock-to-lock with the engine off a number of times while topping the reservoir, then run at idle and repeat. Many installers rush this and trap air, which shows up as a whine at parking speeds.
How to match kit to driving style
Daily driver with moderate tires. A factory-style power steering conversion kit with an OEM-spec box, standard-effort valving, and a Saginaw or Type II pump is often ideal. Select a ratio in the 14 to 16:1 variety for stability.
Touring and perky back road. A quicker ratio box around 12.7:1 teamed with firmer valving offers the turn-in you desire without dartiness if the lorry runs 3 to 5 degrees of caster. Couple with a premium steering universal joint and a solid intermediate shaft for precision.
Heavy truck or off-road. Think about high-capacity pumps with remote reservoirs, a cooler, and boxes created for side load. Reinforce the steering box install. Keep angles in the aftermarket steering shaft conservative and supported.
Show build with a clean engine bay. Electric column help keeps the bay neat and avoids tubes. It requires careful column mounting and attention to electrical load. On heavy cars and trucks, hydraulic still feels stronger at parking speeds.
Testing and feel, what to expect
On-center feel. An effectively set box needs to have a small deadband at center that transitions efficiently into assist. Excessive tightness at center might show inaccurate preload on the box sector shaft. Absence of center feel recommends used linkage or overboosted valving.
Effort gradient. Ideally, effort rises modestly with speed and steering angle. Too light everywhere recommends an overboosted pump-valve combo. Too heavy at low speeds can be pump output or a circulation control issue.
Noise and heat. A warm but not hot pump body is regular. If the tank bubbles after a hard car park session, you have aeration. Add a cooler if heat stays high and validate return line submergence.
Straight-line stability. After a handbook to power steering conversion, reconsider toe and caster. Power assist allows more favorable caster, which assists straight tracking. Start with producer guidelines then push caster up a degree if the wheel still wanders.
A close look at steering box conversion set components
A common steering box conversion set must consist of a reman or brand-new box, pump with brackets, pulley, hose pipes, and the essential coupler or u-joint to mate with your column. Some include a brand-new pitman arm. Take notice of:
Input shaft size. GM boxes vary between 3/4 inch 30-spline and metric 3/4 inch 36-spline inputs. Ford and Mopar have their own requirements. Choose the proper coupler or steering universal joint to match.
Output sector and pitman arm clocking. Utilizing the incorrect arm or clocking can shift your center position, minimizing turning radius on one side and inducing irregular steering stops. Mark the center before disassembly and match it throughout install.
Pump style. Conventional Saginaw pumps work, but Type II pumps are compact and pair well with serpentine systems. On high-demand setups, select pumps with recognized circulation and pressure specifications and a reservoir with an anti-foaming design.
Hose end type. Inverted flare, O-ring, banjo, and AN conversions regularly mix. If you prepare to plumb with AN lines, choose a package that supports it natively. Prevent stacking adapters that invite leaks.
Universal joint steering and angles
When you modify box location or switch to a rack, you frequently change column-to-box angles. Universal joint steering setups tolerate a limited misalignment. Keep individual joint angles under roughly 15 degrees for smoothness. If you need to surpass that, include a second u-joint and an assistance bearing to separate the angle. Clock the yokes so the joints remain in phase. An out-of-phase shaft provides a bumpy feel, especially around center. Some columns use a collapsible section for safety. Maintain that function when you adjust an aftermarket steering shaft, and make sure the slip travel exceeds engine and body install movement.
Installation truths, 2 things to plan
Time and tools. Getting a set bolted on can take a long afternoon if brackets fit and lines are straightforward, or a complete weekend if you need to fine-tune column length, fabricate an easy bracket, or route tubes around headers. You will want a pulley installer, a torque wrench, flare nut wrenches, and a method to support the guiding column inside the cabin while you work under the hood.
Alignment and test drive. Budget plan time for an alignment later. Do not judge the last feel until you fix caster and toe and re-center the wheel. Bring the car back after a hundred miles to reconsider for seepage at fittings and confirm belt stress as new belts seat.
Cost ranges and value
A quality hydraulic conversion with a reman box, pump, brackets, tubes, and a coupler often lands in the 900 to 1,600 dollar range for common domestic platforms. Rack conversions run 1,400 to 2,500 dollars depending on efficiency and required subframe or crossmember adjustments. Sturdy off-road systems with big pumps, tanks, and coolers can climb to 1,800 to 3,000 dollars. Electric column assist kits vary commonly from 1,200 to north of 2,000 dollars, plus any column work.
The best value is the kit that bolts on without consistent rework which includes trusted support. Look for detailed directions, genuine torque requirements, a parts list with part numbers, and a clear service warranty. If a set leaves you scrounging for a pitman arm or thinking about pipe ends, your time expense erases any savings.
Common mistakes and how to prevent them
People frequently underestimate steering shaft geometry. A header tube, a motor mount, or a raised suspension can require uncomfortable angles. Plan for an intermediate shaft with an assistance bearing and the ideal steering universal joint arrangement.
Pump choice can also journey up a conversion. A pump that flows excessive at idle can make the wheel feel nervous and transmit kickback. Circulation control valves are offered for some pumps, and certain kits tune this from the factory. If your box feels too light, do not assume the box is incorrect before you look at pump circulation and pressure.
Return line routing matters. A return line that discards above the fluid level lathers the reservoir. Use a reservoir with internal complicated or an immersed return. Keep the line away from the exhaust and moving suspension parts.
Finally, understand your alignment targets. After a manual to power steering conversion, your automobile or truck can handle more caster. That single change typically transforms highway manners from unclear to confident.
A short buyer's checklist
- Confirm box input and output spline specs, pitman arm compatibility, and center position markings. Choose a pump with known flow and pressure specifications that match your box and tire load.
The right steering universal joint and aftermarket guiding shaft save setup time. Prevent tight single-joint angles by adding an assistance bearing if needed.
Final word on feel and expectations
A great conversion need Aftermarket steering shaft to make the car feel like it always needs to have, lighter at low speeds, settled and precise at pace. On a square-body truck with a decent box and modern-day positioning, the guiding wheel must find center on its own after a turn, with just a hint of help humming under heavy parking maneuvers. A classic Mustang with an appropriately spec 'd integral box needs to sculpt a two-lane with calm hands at the wheel, not twitch or roam. A Bronco ought to stop dripping from its spaghetti of hoses and cylinders and guide like a contemporary truck.
What gets you there is not magic. Match the steering box ratio and valving to weight and tire size. Pick a pump that does not outgun package. Build an aftermarket steering shaft that clears challenges with practical universal joint angles. Route pipes smartly with a tank that resists aeration. Complete with an alignment that makes the most of power assist. The result is an automobile or truck that invites miles, not simply admiration from the curb.
Borgeson Universal Co. Inc.
9 Krieger Dr, Travelers Rest, SC 29690
860-482-8283