Anyone who has actually battled a big-tired truck into a tight parking area or threaded a traditional muscle vehicle through a winding road understands the limits of manual steering. Transforming to power assist transforms the experience, however not all sets are equivalent and not every automobile reacts the very same way. I have actually set up, tuned, and sometimes returned more than a few setups over the years on everything from square-body Chevys to early Broncos and A-body Mopars. The best conversions feel factory-stable at highway speed, need little effort on the wheel at low speeds, and do not introduce new headaches like pump whine, bump guide, or u-joint binding. The worst feel twitchy, leakage early, or require constant fiddling.
This evaluation strolls through the significant categories of handbook to power steering conversion alternatives, the leading players in each classification, and how to select a kit that fits your automobile and use case. It likewise covers the little pieces that make or break the install, including guiding columns, an aftermarket steering shaft that actually clears headers, and the best steering universal joint to handle odd column and box angles.
Where a conversion makes the most significant impact
Manual steering can be perfectly functional on a light automobile with slim front tires. Include weight, bigger tire contact patches, contemporary caster settings for stability, or off-road tires and manual boxes become work. A well-chosen power guiding conversion kit lets you:
- Reduce steering effort at parking speed without losing road feel at 60 to 80 mph. Run more favorable caster for straight-line stability, especially on trucks that roam with stock specs.
The sweet spot includes classic trucks that tow sometimes, muscle cars with broader front rubber and modern-day positioning, and classic 4x4s that see combined street and trail task. On the other end, concours remediations and lightweight sports cars might benefit more from a rebuilt handbook box and fresh geometry if creativity or simpleness outranks convenience.
The main paths to power assist
Kits fall into a number of camps. Your vehicle and goals will point toward one of these paths.
Retain the initial steering box and add a hydraulic ram. Popular on some vintage Ford and Mopar platforms, this preserves factory linkage and a manual box with a power-assist cylinder. It keeps duration look, however it includes pipes and can be finicky to tune for on-center feel. Parts are getting limited in some cases and leakages prevail if elements are blended and matched.
Swap to a factory-style power steering box. This is the most typical and typically the most dependable. A steering box conversion kit replaces the manual box with an OEM-spec or quick-ratio box. Lines and a pump finish the system. Feel can be outstanding if package ratio matches the automobile weight and tire size. Lots of kits utilize reman boxes that vary in quality, so brand and guarantee matter.
Bolt-on rack and pinion conversion. Popular for timeless muscle and some trucks where space allows, rack conversions can enhance on-center precision and typically decrease bump guide when the set is well crafted. They also maximize header area in some applications. The downside is product packaging intricacy and, on some chassis, a bad tie-rod length or pivot inequality that presents bump steer if geometry is not corrected.
Electric power help on the column. This is growing quickly in niche circles. A column-mounted electric motor adds assist without changes to the steering box or rack. It simplifies plumbing, eliminates a pump, and reduces parasitic drag. It needs cautious installing, a strong column, and proper torque sensing unit calibration. Purists might object, and high present wiring plus heat management need to be considered.
For this review, I focus on hydraulic conversions that many lovers consider first, with notes on when a rack or electrical column makes more sense.
What separates a good package from a bad one
The best power guiding conversion kit is not simply a box, a pump, and a couple hoses. The information define the outcome.
First, guiding geometry. A power box with the wrong pitman arm length or spline configuration can change guiding ratio at the roadway, making the vehicle twitchy or lazy. Second, real ratio and valving. A quick-ratio box in a heavy truck with 35-inch tires can feel nervous without proper caster and high-effort valving. Third, parts quality. Pumps with careless tolerances cavitate. Hoses that lose get zip-tied near headers and fail. A great set consists of a pump bracket that aligns belts, a proper rag joint or a high-quality steering universal joint, and clear directions about positioning targets and bleeding procedures.
Noise is the huge inform. A system that wails after warm-up, especially throughout low-speed steering, frequently experiences aeration. Poor reservoir design, hose pipe routing that invites suction leakages, or a return line dumping above the fluid level will have you chasing your tail. An aftermarket guiding shaft that binds is the other red flag. If you are mixing columns, retractable shafts, and headers, plan for a double U-joint with an intermediate support bearing to keep angles under 30 degrees total and under 15 degrees per joint. That little piece of planning conserves hours of frustration.
Brand families and what they are known for
There are dozens of labels on the market, lots of drawing from the exact same little group of remanufacturers. The differences lie in testing standards, warranties, efficiency, and tech support. Below is a field-based map of common options by automobile type, not an extensive roll call.
Classic GM cars and trucks. Many kits use the Saginaw 700 or 800 series boxes. Borgeson and CPP have well-supported plans for A, F, and X bodies and square-body trucks. Look for boxes with the correct input shaft size to match your column coupler and an option of ratios. For square-body 4x4s, RedHead Steering's reman boxes have constant on-center feel, though you will buy the pump and brackets individually. If you want a tighter ratio without losing stability, a 12.7:1 box with firmer valving works well on half-ton trucks with 31 to 33 inch tires.
Early Ford cars and Broncos. Borgeson's important power steering conversion is a go-to for first-gen Bronco owners who are tired of the factory ram help system. It uses a contemporary integral box, a pump, tubes, and the necessary column adapter. On early Mustangs and Falcons, Unisteer makes rack conversions that keep bump guide in check if set up with proper shimming. The Borgeson box tends to give better road feel than lots of aftermarket racks on these vehicles, though the racks can free up header area with certain engine swaps.
Mopar B and E bodies. Firm Feel and Steer & & Equipment have actually made devoted followings for remanufactured factory-style boxes with custom valving. Mopar owners tend to care about steering feel and wheel return, and these houses will develop a box for your weight, tire, and intended usage. Pumps and brackets are typically separate purchases or sourced from modern Serpentine conversions.
Vintage 4x4 conversions. For solid axle Jeeps and Land Cruisers, PSC and AGR offer sturdy pumps, remote tanks, and boxes or Saginaw conversions intended for off-road loads. These are overkill for a street-only cruiser however shine when tires get big and steering sees high loads on rocks. With 35s and lockers, a stock-style power box can overheat or cavitate. A PSC kit with a high-capacity tank, cooler, and appropriate pipe sizes keeps assist consistent.
Electric column help. ePowerSteering and EPAS Efficiency offer column units for classics where hydraulic packaging is a mess or creativity matters underhood. They incorporate torque sensing units and speed-sensitive help in some applications. On heavy lorries or huge tires, electric help alone may feel labored at extremely low speeds, but for a light coupe or roadster it is elegantly basic and silent.
Real-world outcomes by platform
I will keep this practical with what tends to deal with common vehicles.
GM A-body and F-body. A quick-ratio Saginaw box with matched pump is the most basic route. CPP's sets cover brackets for little block and big block, and their pumps act if the reservoir sits greater than the pump inlet and returns are routed easily. Borgeson's boxes frequently have tighter internal tolerances and better on-center feel out of package. Match the conversion with modern alignment specs, plus a quality steering universal joint to replace worn rag joints if you are running headers. The stock column can be retained, however an aftermarket steering shaft with a double D slip section aids with engine motion and firewall software angles.
Square-body Chevy and GMC trucks. RedHead's reman box plus a Type II pump package from a credible source provides a strong steering feel and reduces pump whine compared to budget Saginaw pumps. Numerous packages include rubber hose pipes that balloon slightly and moisten ripple; braided stainless appearances great however can transfer sound. If you tow or run larger tires, a small cooler plumbed into the return line assists fluid life.
Early Bronco. The Borgeson integral box package cleans up the front end compared to factory ram assist. It brings much better on-center feel and less leak points. Plan to adjust the column length and utilize a steering universal joint that matches the new box input spline. The provided pump bracketry lines up on small blocks, but big block or 5.0 swaps might require customized brackets. Individuals forget positioning: an early Bronco likes more caster than stock after the conversion, usually 4 to 6 degrees with power assist.
First-gen Mustang and Falcon. Rack conversions prevail, but bump guide can sneak in if the rack's inner tie-rod pivots do not line up with the lower control arm rotates. Unisteer's kits include spacers and directions to correct this. If you choose a factory look and strong steering feel, the Borgeson essential box with a quality pump works well up to 245 front tires. An aftermarket guiding shaft with a collapsible section is a good idea for security and to alleviate installation around headers.
Mopar B and E bodies. A rebuilt box from Company Feel with phase 2 valving balances effort and feedback for road use. Initial pumps are fine when healthy, but a contemporary pump bracket and reservoir simplify belt positioning. Lots of Mopar owners undervalue the rag joint; switching to a steering universal joint improves accuracy, specifically with stiffer suspension bushings.
Jeep CJ and YJ, old-school Land Cruisers. If you wheel, choose a sturdy box and pump with a large reservoir and a cooler. PSC's pump and reservoir mixes resist cavitation in sluggish, high-load steering. A steering box conversion set that upgrades frame reinforcement near the box is necessary to avoid breaking. A double U-joint aftermarket steering shaft with an assistance bearing clears headers and prevents binding across suspension travel.
The little parts that make the big difference
A conversion that feels factory-smooth owes its manners to information most buyers neglect up until issues appear.
Aftermarket steering components. Not all replacement pitman arms, idler arms, and center links are equal. Use joints from understood suppliers or OE if offered. Careless new parts ruin a great box.
Steering universal joint quality. Low-cost u-joints can bind and establish play within a year. Heat from headers accelerates grease breakdown. Quality joints from Borgeson or Flaming River, appropriately lined up, last longer and feel tighter.
Aftermarket guiding shaft design. Slip areas prevent column stress when the engine rocks on its installs. For tight angles, a two-joint arrangement with an intermediate assistance bearing provides much better geometry than requiring a single joint beyond 30 degrees.
Pump and pulley-block positioning. Even a couple of millimeters off will squeal and eat belts. Bracket sets that reference several mounting points tend to remain aligned better than simple plate brackets.
Hose routing and tank choice. A remote tank with a correct return diffuser minimizes aeration and sound. Keep returns listed below the fluid line and far from heat. Do not mount hose pipes where they chafe on the frame or crossmember. If area is tight near headers, use heat sleeves.
Bleeding procedure. Turn the wheel lock-to-lock with the engine off several times while topping the tank, then perform at idle and repeat. Numerous installers hurry this and trap air, which appears as a whine at parking speeds.
How to match set to driving style
Daily chauffeur with moderate tires. A factory-style power steering conversion kit with an OEM-spec box, standard-effort valving, and a Saginaw or Type II pump is typically ideal. Select a ratio in the 14 to 16:1 range for stability.
Touring and spirited country roads. A quicker ratio box around 12.7:1 teamed with firmer valving provides the turn-in you want without dartiness if the car runs 3 to 5 degrees of caster. Couple with a top quality steering universal joint and a strong intermediate shaft for precision.
Heavy truck or off-road. Think about high-capacity pumps with remote tanks, a cooler, and boxes created for side load. Strengthen the steering box install. Keep angles in the aftermarket steering shaft conservative and supported.
Show construct with a tidy engine bay. Electric column help keeps the bay tidy and prevents pipes. It needs careful column mounting and attention to electrical load. On heavy cars, hydraulic still feels stronger at parking speeds.
Testing and feel, what to expect
On-center feel. A correctly set box ought to have a slight deadband at center that transitions smoothly into help. Excessive tightness at center may show inaccurate preload on the box sector shaft. Lack of center feel recommends worn linkage or overboosted valving.
Effort gradient. Preferably, effort rises modestly with speed and guiding angle. Too light all over suggests an overboosted pump-valve combination. Too heavy at low speeds can be pump output or a flow control issue.
Noise and heat. A warm however not hot pump body is typical. If the tank bubbles after a tough parking area session, you have aeration. Add a cooler if heat stays high and verify return line submergence.
Straight-line stability. After a manual to power steering conversion, recheck toe and caster. Power help allows more positive caster, which helps straight tracking. Start with maker standards then push caster up a degree if the wheel still wanders.
A close look at steering box conversion kit components
A common steering box conversion set ought to include a reman or brand-new box, pump with brackets, pulley-block, hose pipes, and the necessary coupler or u-joint to mate with your column. Some include a new pitman arm. Focus on:
Input shaft size. GM boxes differ in between 3/4 inch 30-spline and metric 3/4 inch 36-spline inputs. Ford and Mopar have their own standards. Choose the proper coupler or steering universal joint to match.
Output sector and pitman arm clocking. Utilizing the wrong arm or clocking can move your center position, reducing turning radius on one side and inducing uneven steering stops. Mark the center before disassembly and match it during install.
Pump style. Standard Saginaw pumps work, but Type II pumps are compact and pair well with serpentine systems. On high-demand setups, select pumps with known flow and pressure specifications and a tank with an anti-foaming design.
Hose end type. Inverted flare, O-ring, banjo, and AN conversions regularly blend. If you plan to plumb with AN lines, select a kit that supports it natively. Avoid stacking adapters that invite leaks.
Universal joint steering and angles
When you change box area or switch to a rack, you often change column-to-box angles. Universal joint steering setups tolerate a limited misalignment. Keep individual joint angles under roughly 15 degrees for smoothness. If you should exceed that, include a second u-joint and an assistance bearing to break up the angle. Clock the yokes so the joints remain in stage. An out-of-phase shaft gives a bumpy feel, specifically around center. Some columns utilize a retractable area for security. Preserve that function when you adjust an aftermarket steering shaft, and guarantee the slip travel goes beyond engine and body mount movement.
Installation realities, two things to plan
Time and tools. Getting a set bolted on can take a long afternoon if brackets fit and lines are uncomplicated, or a complete weekend if you need to tweak column length, produce a basic bracket, or path tubes around headers. You will desire a pulley installer, a torque wrench, flare nut wrenches, and a technique to support the guiding column inside the cabin while you work under the hood.
Alignment and test drive. Spending plan time for a positioning later. Do not evaluate the last feel till you fix caster and toe and re-center the wheel. Bring the cars and truck back after a hundred miles to recheck for seepage at fittings and validate belt tension as brand-new belts seat.
Cost varieties and value
A quality hydraulic conversion with a reman box, pump, brackets, pipes, and a coupler often lands in the 900 to 1,600 dollar range for common domestic platforms. Rack conversions run 1,400 to 2,500 dollars depending on completeness and needed subframe or crossmember adjustments. Heavy-duty off-road systems with big pumps, tanks, and coolers can climb to 1,800 to 3,000 dollars. Electric column help sets range widely from 1,200 to north of 2,000 dollars, plus any column work.
The finest worth is the set that bolts on without constant rework and that consists of dependable assistance. Look for comprehensive instructions, real torque specifications, a parts list with part numbers, and a clear service warranty. If a set leaves you hunting for a pitman arm or thinking about hose ends, your time cost erases any savings.
Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
People often ignore steering shaft geometry. A header tube, a motor mount, or a raised suspension can force uneasy angles. Prepare for an intermediate shaft with an assistance bearing and the best steering universal joint arrangement.
Pump choice can likewise journey up a conversion. A pump that streams excessive at idle can make the wheel feel nervous and transfer kickback. Circulation control valves are offered for some pumps, and specific packages tune this from the factory. If your box feels too light, do not assume package is wrong before you take a look at pump circulation and pressure.
Return line routing matters. A return line that disposes above the fluid level foams the tank. Utilize a tank with internal complicated or a submerged return. Keep the line away from the exhaust and moving suspension parts.
Finally, understand your alignment targets. After a manual to power steering conversion, your car or truck can manage more caster. Universal joint steering That single change frequently changes highway good manners from vague to confident.
A brief purchaser's checklist
- Confirm box input and output spline specifications, pitman arm compatibility, and center position markings. Choose a pump with recognized circulation and pressure specs that match your box and tire load.
The right steering universal joint and aftermarket guiding shaft save installation time. Avoid tight single-joint angles by including an assistance bearing if needed.
Final word on feel and expectations
A good conversion must make the lorry feel like it constantly should have, lighter at low speeds, settled and precise at rate. On a square-body truck with a good box and modern-day positioning, the steering wheel must find center on its own after a turn, with just a hint of help humming under heavy parking maneuvers. A timeless Mustang with a correctly spec 'd integral box must sculpt a two-lane with calm hands at the wheel, not twitch or roam. A Bronco ought to stop leaking from its spaghetti of hose pipes and cylinders and steer like a contemporary truck.
What gets you there is not magic. Match the steering box ratio and valving to weight and tire size. Choose a pump that does not outgun package. Develop an aftermarket steering shaft that clears challenges with practical universal joint angles. Path pipes wisely with a reservoir that withstands aeration. End up with an alignment that takes advantage of power assist. The result is a cars and truck or truck that welcomes miles, not just admiration from the curb.
Borgeson Universal Co. Inc.
9 Krieger Dr, Travelers Rest, SC 29690
860-482-8283